Hand Embroidery

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2011-04-06T21:11:00.001-07:00

Posting will continue very soon

How to make a custom scarf - A break from embroidery

2009-01-07T10:48:00.000-08:00

I chanced upon an interesting craft site today which happens to have pretty good (non-hand embroidery) stuff.

Let us hear about the video from the original uploader
“Ever thought your neck was going to freeze off it was so cold outside? Well worry no more...this week venture into Threadbanger land and learn how to not only make your very own loom but how to utilize all that scrap fabric you got lying around and make a scarf with it. Thanks to Barbara from Bobbi Clothes for hooking it up.”

Bead embroidery--A tutorial

2008-12-26T14:27:00.000-08:00

You might also be interested in reading about Three Quarter cross stitch.

Chicken scratch embroidery

2008-12-19T08:29:00.000-08:00

Chicken Scratch Embroidery

Embroidery handbook

2008-12-14T15:16:00.000-08:00

Embroidery

Brick Stitch

2008-01-05T09:16:00.000-08:00

The Brick Stitch, also known as the Cheyenne Stitch or Comanche Stitch, is a bead weaving stitch with unknown origins in which individual beads are stacked upon each other much as bricks are stacked in a brick wall.

The technique has been used by Native Americans for many years. It has also been found in beadwork in Africa, the Middle East, and South America (Guatemalan examples use beads of size 22/0 and smaller.) [1]

As the other names imply this is an off-loom technique perfected by the Native Americans. It is a relative of another off-loom technique called Peyote stitch or Gourd Stitch. [2] A Brick Stitch pattern can be worked as a Peyote Stitch Pattern if you turn it 90 degrees.

Underside Couching

2008-01-05T09:13:00.000-08:00

Underside Couching - In the embroidery technique of underside couching, thread (usually gold) is laid on the surface of the ground fabric, couching threads are then passed over it. As each couching stitch is worked over the gold thread, the needle is carefully re-inserted into the hole in the backing fabric that the needle created on the way out.

The couching thread is pulled tight and a tiny loop of the gold thread from the surface drops through the hole in the backing fabric to the underside couching

This creates a hinge in the gold thread, allowing the fabric to bend and giving it a great flexibility. Fabric worked with gold thread in underside couching has much more drape than fabric with surface couched gold, thus making it a much better technique for working objects which will be worn, such as ecclesiastical vestments.

Embroidery of Kalocsa

2008-01-05T09:07:00.000-08:00

Embroidery of Kalocsa

The embroidery of Kalocsa belongs to folk embroidery groups which uses freehand drawings and mixed style of stitchings. This also means that in its peculiar style it is not bound to any form, color or stitching technique. Even amongst the rhythmically repeated motifs we can find variations.

The character of the original folk embroidery of Kalocsa is, that in drawing and in color the same motifs twice can't appear. There is no well known folk artist in Kalocsa who will repeat exactly a motif.

If on an embroidery of Kalocsa the pattern is symmetrical and the motif repeats itself it is not an original folk art. Even if a pattern looks symmetrical at first glance, when examined in details one can see differences in the drawing and colors of the pattern as the picture below shows it clearly.

Broderie Perse

2008-01-05T09:05:00.000-08:00

Broderie Perse is a method of applying a fabric, originally the colorful Chintz type fabrics of Europe, onto a background by hand sewing. This was done in order to randomly decorate it or establish a pictorial scene upon the background.

The efforts were turned into coverlets or quilts and became most popular in the 17th Century and possibly earlier in some cases with Indian Broderie Perse findings. The Chintz fabrics were used due to the firm outlines of the figures woven into the fabric, the images were not usually blended into the next image, there was clear space around where the picture could be cut out, as if it were in a coloring book with a line around the outside.

Thus when cut just outside the lines of those images, say a flower or bird, the artist would then take the cut-out motif and apply it onto the background fabric of the project with tiny stitches matching as close to the same color as possible. This technique made the end product look like the picture was printed on it. This can be seen as an early method of fabric puzzle piecing. The placement of the cut-out motifs onto the quilt or coverlet background was usually made into a breathtaking setting which one would definitely classify as an heirloom.

Broderie Perse was for show and these bedcoverings were often left unlined to be used for summer guests. Whether they were layered and quilted or not they were saved for special occasions.

Broderie Anglaise

2008-01-05T09:01:00.000-08:00

Broderie Anglaise, or English Embroidery is a Whitework technique, designs sewn with a white thread onto a white fabric.

It is first mentioned in books as coming to England in the 1820's. It does
not say where from, but I feel it may have developed from the fine Ayrshire
Needlework which had tiny eyelet holes worked among the delicate floral embroidery. This embroidery was time-consuming, worked by women in their
homes as poorly paid out-workers. It had raised satin-stitch and some
needle-lace fillings in the larger holes as part of the design.

It was much quicker just to work the eyelet holes on their own. Little ones are worked by piercing the cloth with a stiletto, a sharp-pointed tool, then over-sewing round the resulting hole. Then the holes became bigger, which meant they had to be cut out after sewing round the shape, circle or oval.

This was done by snipping with sharp pointed scissors, from side to side and top to bottom of the shape without cutting the outline thread. The fabric flaps were turned under, then the hole over-sewn or button-holed. Not as difficult as it sounds.

The designs were very lacy, in fact as time went on the patterns developed into cut-work, where more fabric was cut away than was left. These larger holes were always filled with needle-lace stitches, or whipped or buttonhole bars, often with picots.

Bunka Shishu Embroidery

2007-10-13T11:05:00.000-07:00

Bunka shishu in English often shortened to bunka, is a form of Japanese embroidery originating around the turn of the 20th Century. Bunka artists use a specialized embroidery needle and rayon threads to create very detailed pictures that some liken to oil paintings.

Typical subjects include people, living things, and traditional Japanese scenes.
Unlike some other forms of embroidery, bunka is fragile and is usually presented as artwork rather than as clothing adornment.

Bunka has gained in popularity since the advent of numbered kits, which provide a step-by-step guide to producing artwork.

Embroidered sarees

2007-08-10T02:35:00.000-07:00

A beautiful crush brocade georgette saree in blue color .Crush body is brocaded in golden zari leaf , floral and creeper motifs. It is with contrast rust color border and pallu. The border and pallu are woven in golden zari floral and creeper motifs. The contrast rust color self-brocade skirt design border enriches the beauty of the saree. The saree is with the matching blouse material. This collection is an ever-lasting dream, charisma and lasting thought of every womans prized possession.

A beautiful pure georgette saree in khaki brown color. Body is decorated all over with gold kasab work floral motifs outlined with resham thread work and embellished with beadwork. It is with contrast 9-yard brown color cutwork border. The contrast border with kasab work leaf motifs in double line embellished with sequins and beadwork enhances the beauty of the saree. The same work floral and creeper are beautifully decorated on the pallu. The same work is repeated on the matching blouse material.. An immaculately finished embroidery set in diversified trend to remarkably designed traditional yet novel sarees. A saree for all special occasions.

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Embroidery contest

2007-08-05T02:27:00.000-07:00

I have reviewd all the entries and the lucky winners are ramani from chennai and lakshmi from delhi.Both of them are from india,let this just be a start and i hope that the next time,many oversees participants are also in.

Ramani

I asked ramani to describe her embroidered saree and also how she did it,she gave me a good explanation which I found to be genuine,so here goes...

Lakshmi

Lakshmi is a down to earth person and shes well known in mayur vihar(Delhi) for all her works.
Her embroidered product was good enough to win a saree.Congrats.

I would like to mention about sheethal too..Her saree looked good though but anyways i wish her good luck next time.

Win a saree worth $450

2007-07-20T06:44:00.000-07:00

Readers,this is your opportunity to seize a saree.Send in the picture of your favourite embroidered product(it could be anything) with its description and also how you did it.

Well,if you are an excellent player in embroidery,then expect something big because we will be handing over 2 Aari embroidered sarees(worth $450 each) to two winners.Send in your entries to lemoninfo@gmail.com

Wanna become famous,then send in your entries before the first of august '07.
Entries received as of 31 july' 07 ---8

****The contest stands closed and the winners will be announced in few days.

Smyrna Stitch

2007-05-07T10:48:00.000-07:00

Smyrna Stitch is a Another variation of the cross stitch, this beauty is sometimes
known as the double cross stitch.

It forms a good depiction of the eight Sabbats in the Wheel of the Year.

Bring needle from back to front at odd numbers and enter fabric at even numbers.

For larger stars, finish with a tiny stitch across the center to prevent snagging

Basque knot

2007-05-07T10:46:00.000-07:00

Basque knot also known as Basque Loop stitch, and Knotted loop stitch. As a stitch it can be employed singly, or scattered over an area.

They can also be worked as a textured line, as they can be easily worked joined together. The line produced is well defined as it is knotted.

Basque knot is similar to Palestrina. The main difference, as you can see from the illustrations you work the stitch from right to left, along a line instead of left to right.

The stitch is worked in the same manner as Palestrina stitch only work the stitch from right to left, along a line instead of left to right. Also instead of moving diagonally behind the fabric you move vertically.

Interlaced Running Stitch

2007-05-07T10:42:00.000-07:00

Interlaced running stitch is an attractive line of loops which follows curves well.

To work this stitch simply pass the needle over and under the fabric to create a line of running stitch. Lace or thread the stitches with a contrasting colour or weight thread.

This forms the first half of the loops. At the end of the row, turn and lace to form the other side of the loops.

Use a tapestry needle to avoid splitting the foundation running stitch. With this stitch, take care to lace, and not to pick up any of the fabric.

A thread of one color winds through a line of running stitches, then the other side intertwines with a thread of a complimentary hue. Because of the perfect symmetry, it represents the balances of love and hate, light and dark, the right and left hemispheres of the brain, magickal energies, and the polarities of male and female. The intertwining threads also symbolize the mingling of ideas and thought.

Colonial knot

2007-05-03T21:15:00.000-07:00

Colonial knot is called as figure eight knot, Colonial knot looks very much like a French knot.

To work Colonial knot stitch, bring your thread up through the fabric. I hold the thread in my left hand and with the thread loose place the needle to the right of the thread with the needle pointing away from you. Take the thread under the needle and then over the needle to form a figure 8. This can be done in a hooking action by turning anti-clockwise the needle 180 degrees.

Take the needle to the back of the fabric close to where it first came out. Before you pull it through make sure the loop is snug around the shaft of the needle

Candlewicking

2007-05-03T21:13:00.000-07:00

Candlewicking is a form of surface embroidery that traditionally uses an unbleached cotton thread on a piece of unbleached muslin. It gets its name from the nature of the thread, which very much resembles the wick used in a candle. Motifs are created using a variety of knots and satin stiches. Subject matter is usually taken from nature, flowers, insects, etc. Other traditional motifs resemble PA Dutch or colonial designs. Modern designs include colored floss embroidery with the traditional white on white stitching.

Candlewicking has its origins in american history as new settlers sought to decorate their new homes with minimal supplies. The dust was easily washed from the fabric and able to endure significant wear.

Candlewicking is most commonly used as a cushion cover.

Berwick stitch

2007-05-03T21:10:00.000-07:00

Berwick stitch is also known as Looped edge stitch and forms a line of upright stitches each with a knotted base. This is a quick and easy version of buttonhole which is useful on needlework motifs that have curves.

This needlework stitch is worked from left to right sewing over two imaginary lines.

Bring the thread out on the lower line, insert the needle in position in the upper line making a straight downward motion and then wrap a loop of thread around the needle point. Pull the needle through the fabric to form a loop. Tighten the knot slightly before moving to the next stitch.

Berwick stitch is equally effective with the knotted edge on the inside or outside of the curve.

In the case of using berwick stitch as an decorative embellishment on crazy quilting a more decorative line can be created with the use of beads, and a detached chain, or French knots sewn at the top of each spine.

The length and spacing of the spines can create ornate patterns and effects. This build up of patterns using the texture of the ridge at the base of the spine is also very effective in forms of counted thread and drawn needlework

Coral stitch

2007-05-03T21:06:00.000-07:00

Coral stitch is also known as coral knot, German knot stitch, knotted stitch, beaded stitch, and snail trail. It is also incorrectly known as scroll stitch.

Coral stitch is an old embroidery stitch which creates a line that looks like a row of knots and is used for outlines and follows a curved detail well. Coral stitch is frequently found in seventeenth and eighteenth century English crewel work. It is also a very useful stitch for twiggy bits in a floral design. It can also be used to create a knotted filling with the knots form a secondary pattern across the filling.

Coral stitch is worked from right to left. To work bring the thread up from the back of the fabric and hold it loosely on the surface of the fabric with your thumb. Insert the needle at a right angle, above the line to be worked and bring it out just below the line to be worked. Pull the needle through the fabric and over the thread to form a knot.

Coral stitch can be varied by altering the angle of the needle as it passes through the fabric, and by altering the spacing of the knots along the row. The effect created is also altered by the weight and twist of the thread used.

Aari Work Saree

2007-04-29T00:25:00.000-07:00

Get More

Filling Stitches

2007-04-28T23:59:00.000-07:00

Filling Stitches

Hand embroidery often involves covering small and larger areas with thread. There are several basic stitches commonly used to accomplish this. The most common filling stitches in general embroidery are probably satin stitch and long and short stitch. However, it's nice to have a few alternatives when filling up embroidered spaces. Here are some of the more common basic filling stitches.

Fishbone Stitch:

Here's a good stitch to start with, when it comes to filling smaller shapes such as leaves and flower petals. The advantage of fishbone stitch is that it really looks like a leaf when complet, and you don't have to do anything "extra" to add, for example, the spine down the middle of the leaf. If you want a perfectly smooth leaf, though, you would use satin stitch instead of fishbone. The trick to a good fishbone stitched leaf is to draw a line in the middle of the leaf shape to use as a guide. You want to keep your edges smooth, too.

Direction:

Begin at the tip of the shape, coming up at A. Make a longish straight stitch straight down, following the center line marked in the leaf. Come up at B, and then slant your stitch to cross over the base of the straight stitch, just to the other side of your center line. Come up at C, and go down just on the other side of the center line, crossing over the tip of the previous stitch you just made. Note that the stitches take turns crossing over each other at the center line. They do not enter the fabric "on the line" - rather, just to the other side of the line. In this manner, the stitches overlap each other, all the way down the shape, giving the shape that "woven" look, creating the "spine" down the middle. Keep your stitches close together - you want to cover the area solidly.

flat stich:

This is a lot like the fishbone stitch, but instead of stitching over one center line, you draw two lines just off the center, and take your needle down on either one of them. The flat stitch is also known as the Croatian stitch or the Croatian flat stitch. Again, it solidly fills a shape, forming an overlap in your stitches so that a kind of spine runs down th emiddle of the shape. Once executed, it looks almost identical to the fishbone, except it doesn't come to a point. Flat stitch is a good way to fill in circular flower petals.

Direction:

Again, with this stitch, you're going to be working slightly slanted stitches. Come up at A, go down at B, up at C, cross over the stitch you made when you went down at B, and go down at D. Keep your stitches close together, creating a solid filling. Make certain your edges are kept smooth by following the outline carefully, and taking up very little fabric between stitches

Portuguese Knotted Stem Stitch

2007-04-28T23:51:00.000-07:00

Tthe Portuguese knotted stem stitch is a nice outline stitch to master. A little more complicated than basic stem stitch, this knotted version produces a thicker, rope-like line. Here are some illustrated instructions.

The Portuguese knotted stem stitch is worked from left to right or bottom to top (opposite for left-handed embroiderers). Begin as you do for a stem stitch.

Bring your needle through the fabric, then take it down the length of your stitch, pointing it back towards the place you emerged. In the illustration, you'll see that this is done using a "sewing" method - you work on top of the fabric, without having to go to the back.

This stitch can be worked with or without a hoop - personally, I usually use a hoop, but when I'm using the "sewing" method (as opposed to the "stab" method, where your working hand goes to the back of the fabric to get the needle and put it back through), I don't necessarily keep the fabric drum tight. A little give in the fabric helps with the "sewing" method of embroidery.

You want to keep the thread to the right of your needle when you draw it through, so that the working thread ends up to the left side of the stitch. Take the needle underneath the stitch you just made, without picking up any of the fabric. Do this twice, both times in the same direction, so that you are wrapping the thread twice around your stitch.

After you've wrapped the thread twice around your first stitch, you'll take another stitch, just as you did the first, progressing up the fabric the length of the new stitch, and emerging where the last stitch went down into the fabric.

Now that you have more than one stitch, you are going to wrap your thread twice around the both stitches - the base of the former stitch (after the "knot" that you made on top of the first stitch) and the middle of the new stitch. Take your needle under both stitches twice so that the working thread winds around the stitches twice. See the photo above and below for illustration.

Notice how the needle passes under both stitches and does not pick up any fabric. This is done twice. In the photo above, one pass has already been made, and this is the second pass under the two stitches.

Continue along your line in the same manner, going forward the length of the stitch, pointing the needle back to where your last stitch went down into the fabric, keeping the needle on the left side of the stitch. Pull the needle through, then, going from the right side, pass it under the two stitches twice, and then proceed to your next stitch.

On the back of your fabric, you'll see a line that looks like backstitches.

Parallel chain cord

2007-04-09T22:29:00.000-07:00

'Parallel chain' cord

This gives a 3-D chain effect!

Do a chain, insert hook as shown in (1), yo and draw though (2),
*drop loop from hook, yo and draw though loop on hook as shown in (3),
insert hook back into dropped loop, yo and draw though loop (4),
Repeat from * until required length!

Lobster stitch cord

2007-04-09T22:25:00.000-07:00

Lobster stitch cord

Start as shown in diagram (1) & (2) of 'parallel chain' cord.
yo, draw though loops on hook, *twist work to the left (2), insert hook as shown in (3),
yo, draw though loops as shown (4), yo, draw though loops on hook,
repeat from * until required length

Three Quarter Cross Stitch

2007-03-21T03:18:00.000-07:00

The Three Quarter Cross stitch is used to give the impression of curves in cross stitch.

It is a fractional stitch similar to the Basic cross stitch, but one of the down stitches is pushed through, where the centre of the cross would be.

The centre puncture made, is stitched around the first diagonal and so pulls the thread slightly to the side.

The sideways pulling of the first diagonal is what gives the impression of a curved stitch.

This stitch is best attempted with a sharp needle as the needle is required to puncture the material instead of passing through the holes of the Aida.

If this stitch is used in large numbers in a design, it may be a good idea to use evenweave material instead of Aida.

Reversible Cross Stitch

2007-03-20T11:09:00.000-07:00

The reversible cross stitch produces a cross stitch on the back of your material.

Normally stitched on evenweave, the effect is a small dot of colour seen through the hole of the material.

Normally this stitch has one normal cross stitch followed by a reversible stitch, creating a cross-dot-cross-dot effect.

The row of reversible cross stitch produces a vertical stitch at the end and this cannot be avoided.

If stitched on Aida, the result id a gap the size of one stitch size between the stitches on the front
The stitch is made by stitching the first diagonal as normal, but instead of a vertical stitch on the back, a diagonal of the other direction is made.

This brings the needle through the material in the perfect place for the next stitch.

In essence this gives a zig zag stitch with half the zig zag on the back of the material.

At the end of the row you stitch a vertical stitch and return down the row in the same manner but stitching the other diagonal on the front.

The resultant is a row of cross stitches of every other one on the front and the same on the back.

Tent Stitch

2007-03-20T04:32:00.000-07:00

The Tent Stich is also known as continental tent stitch, or canvas work and is a simple stitch, which is similar to a half stitch

The difference to a half stitch is that it uses more thread and creates a tougher, harder wearing stitch.

There are no vertical stitches in tent stitch and the top right of one stitch is connected via a long diagonal stitch to the bottom left of the next stitch.

The style is similar to a backstitch but the stitches are not in line and are all slanted in the same direction.

The stitch starts with the needle passing through the material from back through to front in the top right hand side.

A diagonal stitch is made by passing the needle from the front to the back of the material in the bottom left hand side.

Next the needle is pushed through on the next stitch to the right, at the top right hand corner, so starting the next stitch.

from the back the stitch looks like a long diagonal overlapping stitch. The back of a half cross would give vertical stitches.

When stitching an area, the next row can be stitched in reverse.

A variation of this stitch is the DIAGONAL TENT STITCH which is where the stitches are made diagonally across the Aida or Evenweave.

This is use to reduce the distortion of the canvas threads which is a characteristic of tent stitch

Rice Stitch

2007-03-20T04:30:00.000-07:00

The Rice stitch is a normal cross stitch, with the addition of a smaller stitch worked over each leg or corner of the cross.

The finished effect is that of cross stitches half overlapping, but it should be noted that every other cross comprises of 4 quarter stitches.

The additional quarter stitches are traditionally worked as backstitch and often stitched in another colour for an interesting effect.

The stitch is made up of a row of normal cross stitch in the first colour.

Next the additional stitches are worked in with a backstitch method, using either the same colour.

If a second colour is to be used, these stitches should be stitched in the second colour.

The neatest effect is where the crosses are worked as double size and this allows this stitch to be worked on Aida.

If this stitch is worked as normal size, then the use of Aida will require the use of a sharp needle and the Aida threads must be punctured for the backstitch.

A variation of this stitch is the Diagonal Rice Stitch, which is the same as the rice stitch but rotated through 45 degrees, giving a cross overlaid with squares.

Long Legged Cross Stitch

2007-03-19T23:15:00.000-07:00

The long legged cross stitch is Also known as the long armed slav stitch or the Portuguese stitch.

The stitch is really a stretched out and overlapping cross stitch.

Unlike the normal cross stitch, you have to complete the whole cross of the stitch before moving on to the next stitch.

If this was not done then the overlap part of the stitch would look messy.

On even weave the first stitch stretches from bottom right to top left and covers 4 threads across to the right and two threads up.

Having moved through the material to the back, a vertical stitch is made across two threads and the needle is passed through to the front.

A normal sized second diagonal stitch is now made, two threads up and two threads to the left, passing the needle through to the back of the material.

finally another vertical stitch is made on the back of the material bringing the needle through to the front in the middle-bottom of the completed cross.

This is the start point for the second cross making the stitches overlap by half a stitch

Montenegrin Stitch

2007-03-19T06:14:00.000-07:00

The Montenegrin stitch is very similar in look to the long legged stitch. but this stitch also has a vertical stitch added.

The effect is one of a fuller coverage and although it cannot be reversed, it is neat on the back.

On Aida the stitch is worked over two holes forward and one up.

Starting the stitch with the needle passing through to the front, the first part of the stitch is completed by moving 4 holes to the right and 2 holes up.

The needle passes through the material here from front to back. and then moving 2 holes down and 2 holes left, through to the front again.

Next passing the needle 2 holes up and 2 holes left, through to the back again.

Next back through to the front 2 holes right and 2 holes down (this is the same hole as the last stitch start.

Next move 2 holes up and go to the back again.

Last move back 2 holes down and come through to the front through the same hole as the last two stitches.

Gobelin Stitch

2007-03-19T04:07:00.000-07:00

Gobelin stitch has good area coverage and is often used to fill in block colour.

It consists of rows of long vertical stitches which overlap and the finished effect is like a tapestry
Care should be made not to pull this stitch too tight as this will distort the neatness of the finishes area. Source netstich

The long stitches should be worked over a number of canvas threads.

The distance between the stitches should be close to the thickness of the thread as possible. This is easier on evenweave than Aida.

If the gap between the stitches is larger than the thickness of the thread the coverage is less dense but this will still be fine as long as the gap is not too large.

To start, stitch a long straight stitch over a number of rows of your canvas. Be careful to lay the stitch flat and not to tug at the canvas.

Work along the row, leaving enough room between the stitches to interlock with the next row.

On the last stitch bring the needle through to the front of the canvas in the position to start the interlocking row of stitches.

Work the next row in the opposite direction, filling the gaps above to half way up the gap. This will leave half gaps at the bottom of this row.

Continue with the rows, half filling the gaps left in the previous rows.

Another Type of this stitch is the SLANTED GOBELIN STITCH, which follows the same method except the stitches and rows are worked at 45 degrees.

Double Cross Stitch

2007-03-19T03:51:00.000-07:00

Double Cross Stitch is also known as the Smyrna or Leviathan stitch

Double Cross stitch is worked over two blocks of Aida and if you are using evenweave the stitch can be worked over two or four threads.

The stitch was worked over one normal block of Aida, the stitch would require piercing the material four times and is very difficult to get neat.

The stitch is essentially a cross stitch with a vertical cross placed over the top, creating a simple star shape.

Start the stitch with a normal cross stitch process, finishing with the needle passing to the back of the material in the top right hand corner.

Next pass the needle, back through to the front in the bottom middle position, ready to start the vertical stitch of the vertical cross.

Next pass the needle through the top middle position completing the vertical stitch.

Next pass the needle through the material to the front, at the left hand side and across the middle to the right.

The horizontal (and the double cross stitch) is completed by passing the needle through the material, front to back in on the right hand centre position.

The second (vertical) cross is sometimes stitched in another colour giving more interest.

If two colours are to be used, then complete the row of diagonal crosses, then change colour and stitch the vertical crosses back down the row.

Buttonhole Bar Stitch

2007-03-19T03:44:00.000-07:00

The Buttonhole Bar Stitch is often used in cut out work to link two patterns together.

The finished stitch makes a long bar of embroidery.

The stitch starts by coming out to the front through the left hand end point of the stitch.

The needle is then passed through the fabric at the end point of the stitch and back forward again a few threads lower on the fabric.

The needle is then passed through to the back along side the start point and immediately back to the front a few threads lower on the fabric.

You should now have two threads running the length of the intended bar.

Now you pass the needle through to the back of the fabric above the two threads, starting at the left hand side and back through to the front below the two threads.

As the needle comes back through to the front, it should pass through the loop created by the trailing thread.

This is repeated immediately alongside the first stitch, working your way across the two threads.

The Buttonhole Bar is completed when you reach the right hand side.

Antwerp Edging Stitch

2007-03-19T03:11:00.000-07:00

This Antwerp Edging Stitch is often known as knot stitch edging.

This stitch is usually used to give a decorative edge to a hem.

The needle is passed through the hem width and round the bottom of the material but in front of the working thread.

The needle is then passed back down, between the edge of the material and the thread leading into the start of the stitch.

The needle is then looped round and passed forward through to the front through the loop made by the thread trailing from the needle.

Pull the tread firmly to tie the knot tightly.

The next stitch is now started in the same way.

2007-03-16T03:15:00.000-07:00

We have been receiving overwhelming response from our readers asking for stitch tutorials.We here at Hand embroidery are planing to make everyones visit here more informative by adding video tutorials.

Please leave back a comment on which stitch you would like us to work on.As for embroidered sarees,new designs and stiches have come into vouge blended with a traditional touch.All your enquiries will be directly posted here to make your visit even more personal.

Feel free to write down suggestions/comments.Awaiting your response.

Cut Raised Seed Stitch

2007-03-16T02:49:00.000-07:00

Cut Raised Seed Stitch is a textured stitch which creates a soft pile when the yarn istrimmed (almost like thick velvet). It is created by filling an area with loops, and thencutting the loops open and trimming them. Cut Raised Seed Stitch works especially well foritems such as ear muffs or fur trim on a coat.

Step 1. Come up and go downin the same hole, makinga loop approximately1/2" high.

Step 2. As you make each loop,hold the other loopsin place with thethumb of your otherhand.

Step 3. Continue to fill thearea with loops, keepingthe loops close together

Step 4. Make sure the entirearea is filled withloops.

Step 5. Clip the loops open

Step 6. Note: A small, sharp pairof craft/sewing scissorsworks well for trimming theyarn. Trim the yarn a littleat a time. Keep the stitchesin the center of the areaslightly longer than thestitches around the edgesof the area to create aslightly rounded effect.When finished, the yarnshould be approximately1/8" to 1/4" high.

Step 7. This is how it shouldlook when finished

Step 8. The method for workingCut Raised Seed onneedlepoint canvas isthe same - work oneloop in each hole tofill the area, then cutthe loops open and trim

For better Cut Raised Seed Stitch:

Make the loops long enough so that you can hold on to them with your thumb as you continue to make more loops.

Back the loops in fairly tightly. Too few loops will not produce a nice finished effect.

Trim the yarn a little at a time. It is easier to trim more later than to discover you've gone too far and have to do it over.

Be sure to trim the yarn short! You want to create a soft, fuzzy look. If the yarn is left too long, it will look droopy.

Velvet Stitch

2007-03-08T03:17:00.000-08:00

Velvet Stitch Also known as Astrakhan, Berlin plush, plush, raised, rug and tassel stitch.

The stitch produces a surface which looks like carpet pile. A soft wool thread or multiple strands of fine wool provide the best results. But interesting results can be obtained using stranded cottons, rayons, silks, etc. (see finished flower).

This graphic is shown to understand the following:

This stitch can be used on canvas or cloth. When used on canvas, the work is over a single intersection.

When worked on cloth, which should be of a coarse enough nature to easily count threads, one can go over two threads

First, a diagonal stitch is worked.
Come up at 1, down at 2.
Come up at 3, leave a loop, down at 4.
Come up at 5 and create another diagonal stitch by going down at 6.
Come up at 7 to begin the next Velvet stitch.

The illustration at left shows the working of the stitch. Note the diagonal "cross" stitches created which hold (lock) the stitch in place.

At left is embroidery in crewel and stranded cottons on Austrlian doctor's flannel. This has a readily counted ground.

The center of the flowers (yellow) is worked in velvet stitch using three strands of floss over two threads of the ground

slip knot

2007-03-08T02:49:00.000-08:00

slip knot, also called a running knot, is a broad classification of knots that basically refers to any knot that can "slip" along the rope, and/or can be untied by simply pulling one of the ends. This particular slip knot is sometimes referred to as a simple noose, and has wide range of applications. If you do a little forensic knot analysis on this knot, you will see that it is very, very similar to the overhand knot.

The former kind are generally created by attaching a rope to itself, creating a loop which can be tightened later. Any knot which is used to secure a line to either a post or ring (starting with the simple half hitch, and including such knots as the bowline and clove hitch) can be turned into this sort of slipknot by tying it around the standing part of the line. The most common example of the second kind of slipknot is the rolling hitch

Ghiordes knot

2007-03-06T06:01:00.000-08:00

Also known as Ghiordes knot, quilt knot stitch, single knotted Smyrna rug stitch, tufted knot stitch, turkey rug knot.

The stitch is used on plain weave, single and double canvas, and produces a surface of closely worked loops which are sometimes trimmed for a rich pile effect. It is frequently used for doll's hair, left in a looped state without trimming, as well as on any surface where a textured effect is desired. Work the stitch in thick wool, multiple strands of wool or multiple strands of any thread/floss.

The needle goes down (to the wrong side) at A. Leave a length of thread (one to two inches or more) under your thumb on the right side.

Bring the needle up at B and down at C, making a back stitch. Continue to hold the tail in place.Bring the needle up again at A.

Make another loop the same length as the original free thread, going down at D.

Bring the needle up at E and down at B, creating the second back stitch. These back stitches lock the loops in place. Notice that when doing the loop stitch, the thread is toward you, and when doing the back stitch, the thread is away from you. This further creates a locking stitch, helping to hold the loops the same size. ContentStumpwork Embroidery

Continue in this manner until the area is filled (usually in straight rows). Cut the pile and brush out for a very fluffy appearance, or leave the loops intact (such as for doll hair).

A trick when requiring loops of even lengths is to use a fat knitting needle, a free finger, or other object (stiff cardboard cut to desired size) which will keep the loops the same size as you work.

Cup stitch

2007-03-02T03:12:00.000-08:00

Cup stitch is a raised stitch and is used to give three dimensional effect to the patterns.

The first step of the stitch includes creating a triangle with three long stitches. Each long stitch is then Work two twisted buttonhole stitches on each of these base stitches, as shown. To build the stitch higher, continue around, working one stitch into each of the spaces between the stitches of the previous round.

Continue in thisType until the resulting tube is the height you require. To open thestructureout, add extra stitches into some of the spaces. To close up the structure make the stitches in alternate spaces. Make collections of various stages of this stitch with different textures of thread.

Cable Stich

2007-02-24T04:15:00.001-08:00

Cable Stich Is Otherwise Called Lining Stiches, And Looks Like Back Stich

The cable stitch appears to have the smoothest look over the stem or outline
stitch which tend to pull.

The stitches are shown for their different textural effects created on the front.

These textural areas are to be used when you want to showcase a motif, either picture smocked or embellished with bullions and other flowers.

Bullion Daisy

2007-02-24T04:10:00.000-08:00

Bullion Daisy is a Variation Of Chain Family. A bullion Knot Done On Substance is Bullion Daisy.

The Bullion Tipped Lazy Stich Is a Great way To Make Flower Petals,Rosebuds, Leaves Et.
Start Your Detached Chain Stich And Instaed Of making a staright Stich To secure It, Pick Up The Loop From The First Part Of The Stich And Warp It Around Your Needle Once or Twice Pulling It Through.This Stich Works well In Thread Or ribbon

Rabari embroidery

2007-02-24T01:56:00.001-08:00

Rabari embroidery is a pictographic representation of their mythology, beliefs, culture and life. Women embroider their clothes, cradle cloth and other linen of the house. Embroidery is a vital, living and evolving expression of the craft and textile traditions of the Rabaris.

They use glass mirrors in various shapes: round, rhomboid, rectangular, square, triangular, and beak shaped.

History Rabaris are nomadic people who came to Gujarat via Sindh, Rajasthan and Baluchistan. While the origins of this embroidery form are not exactly known, the style is quite similar to ancient Baluch embroidery.

The importance given to camel also points to the connection. The embroidered chaklas and kothalos marks the relation with Rajasthan. Rabari women embroider textiles as an expression of creativity, aesthetics and identity for ever.

Patterns and Stitches As per the belief the mirrors on the cradle cloth protect their children from evil spirits. Rabaris embroider camel trappings, long adan jackets, chorani pants ludi (veil), the groom's kediyan and so many other ceremonial and daily utility things. Rabari embroidery is like a language of expression for women.

The compositions created comprise specific motifs each of which has a name and meaning. Many of these symbols represent elements intrinsic to Rabari everyday life and throws light upon how the community sees their world. Others have historical meaning and help to perpetuate the Rabari knowledge of their heritage.

There is intensive use of shaped mirrors. The stitches are square chain interlaced with buttonhole for mirror work, single chain, knot, Romanian, blanket interlaced with herringbone, running, and double running. Temple motifs, women balancing pots on their heads (paniyari), mango leaves, coconuts, scorpions, camels, parrots, elephants and the tree of life are some of the beloved and auspicious motifs of Rabari embroidery

This embroidery style is not static. The stitches, scales, color, everything changes with the imagination and spontaneity of the artist. The style is constantly evolving. Its the creativity of Rabari women, a manifestation of their extraordinary capacity for adaptation that keeps this traditional vital

Banni Embroidery

2007-02-24T01:44:00.000-08:00

The embroidered fabrics that come from Banni in Kutch are famous for bright yellow, red and saffron colors and mirror work with beads.

The embroidery is done by the Jat community and is known for the intricacy and richness. The fabric is embellished with architectural designs and is also called Heer Bharat.

The Banni embroidery is done using the silk floss called heer locally. It is a typical embroidery manipulating the weave of the fabric. The mirrors are studded using buttonhole and chain stitch.

Mirror work

2007-02-22T23:12:00.000-08:00

Mirror work is the art of stitching mirrors on to the fabric in a variety of designs.
Mirrors of different shapes (Square, Diamond, Round etc) and sizes are used for Mirror work.

Mirror work can be done on any fabric in sarees, blouse pieces, skirts etc. After fixing the mirror you can stitch beads around to make it more attractive.

Sequence is a plastic silver coated material available in different shapes and size. This is also used instead of mirrors.

Materials Required

Mirrors or sequence of desired shapes & sizesEmbroidery ThreadNeedle

There are different ways of fixing mirrors of different shapes to the fabric. Two or three strands of thread are taken to fix mirrors or sequence.

Check Tutorials

Tunisian Crochet Stitch

2007-02-22T22:47:00.000-08:00

The sample above shows Tunisian afghan stitch worked in the intarsia method. Many of the tunisian crochet stitches can be worked using the intarsia method.

The instructions below show the intarsia method used with afghan stitch but you shouldn't have any problems applying it to others. All you have to do is twist the yarns whenever you change colours.

First of all, choose a chart for your crochet. use a simple 7 stitch by 7 row rectangle for sample. You can use any knitting chart for Tunisian intarsia crochet as the proportions are about the same as knit stitches, but you will have to turn the chart on it's side because tunisian crochet stitches are taller than they are wide, and knitting stitches are wider than they are tall.

Start by making your chain in the same colours as the first row of your chart. And count the slip knot as your first stitch. Leave Out turning chains.

First:

A-> Work the foundation row as follows, following the first row of your chart:Insert your hook
into the top thread of the second chain from the hook. Draw a loop thro and
leave it on the hook.Repeat in every chain until you need to change colours. Always read
your chart from right to left.

B-> To change colours, bring the new colour under the one you've finished with and continue
making your stitches. Do this whenever you need to change colours. The next stitch in the
sample below was yellow

Second:

Complete all the stitches in the same colour as the previous row.Each row of your chart equals two rows of crochet. ie. One row to create the loops and one row to work them off. This is why you read every row of your chart from right to left.

A-> To complete the stitches wind your yarn around the hook and draw it through two loops,
repeat until you only have one loop of your current colour left on your hook.

B-> Twist your yarns by picking up your new colour from underneath the one you just finished

with and complete the stitch. Finish the row, changing colours in this way whenever necessary.

Always reading your chart from right to left, repeat these two rows to form the afghan stitch, picking up the next row of loops in the vertical thread of the stitches formed by the previous two rows, and remembering to always pick up your new colour from underneath the old colour. When you've completed your crochet piece, finish off with a row of slip stitches in the same colours as your last row.

If the first stitch of any row in your chart is different to the last stitch of the previous row, start your new colour when drawing through the last two loops on the previous row. This way your first loop will be the correct colour to begin the next row.

Source: knittingand.com

You can also use this method to work fairisle patterns by stranding the yarn across the back of your work.

Holbein stitch

2007-02-21T01:36:00.000-08:00

Holbein stitch is a simple, reversible line embroidery stitch most commonly used in Blackwork embroidery and Assisi embroidery.

Although superficially similar to Back Stitch the Holbein stitch produces a smoother line and a pattern that is identical on both sides of the fabric. It can be worked in straight lines, diagonally, or in a stepped fashion to make a zigzag line and is well suited to creating outlines or intricate filling patterns.

Holbein stitch is also known as double running stitch, line stitch, Spanish stitch, Chiara stitch and two-sided line stitch.

Description of the technique

Holbein stitch is usually worked on on an evenweave fabric where the threads can be counted to ensure perfect regularity and is worked in two stages. Firstly, a row of evenly spaced running stitches is worked along the line to be covered. Then the return journey is completed, filling in the spaces between stitches made on the first journey and sharing the same holes

Kashmiri embroidery

2007-02-20T23:57:00.000-08:00

Kashmiri embroidery is known for the skilled execution of a single stitch. Chain stitch, satin stitch, the slanted darn stitch, stem, herringbone and sometimes the doori or knot stitches are used but not more than one or two at a time.

Sozni embroidery or dorukha is often done so skillfully that the motif appears on both sides of the shawl each side having a different color. There is no wrong side. The same design is produced in different colors on both sides.

The base cloth whether wool or cotton, is generally white or crème or other similar shades. Pastel colors are also often used. The craftsmen use the color shades often blending with the background. Thread colors are florals seen around. Very few stitches are used on one fabric, one or two. Attimes the whole fabric is done in a single stitch type. These stitches are often called Kashmiri stitch.

Aari Saree With Kuntan work

2007-02-17T09:47:00.000-08:00

Check
Aari Saree/zardosi embroidery/Hand Embroidery

Rabari Embroidery

2007-02-17T09:39:00.000-08:00

Rabari embroidery is unique to the nomadic Rabaris. Essential to Rabari embroidery is the use of mirrors in a variety of shapes.

Rabaris outline patterns in chain stitch, then decorate them with a regular sequence of mirrors and accent stitches, in a regular sequence of colors

Rabaris also use decorative back stitching, called bakhiya, to decorate the seams of women’s blouses and men’s jackets.

The stitches are square chain interlaced with buttonhole for mirror work, single chain, knot, Romanian, blanket interlaced with herringbone, running, and double running

Eyelet Stitch

2007-02-17T09:22:00.000-08:00

This is a stitch found on canvas work, pulled work and counted work. It is worked on even weave fabric, with the fabric held under tension in a hoop or a frame. It is and made up of stitches arranged in a square. As a filling stitch it creates a regular geometric pattern of blocks which if worked under tension and pulled with each stitch, have a small hole in the center

Often called an “Algerian” eyelet, the most basic of all eyelets contains eight stitches. In this form it can be stitched on Aida as well as linen. All other eyelets must be done on a “thread-count” fabric or canvas. The Algerian Eyelet has stitches only in the four corners, top, bottom and two sides. Other traditional eyelets have stitches between every linen thread surrounding a central hole.

When making many eyelets in one project, you will get the best result by pulling consistently. Many people find that using a tool to poke a hole in the center before beginning helps keep stitches consistent. Antique and reproduction stilettos are available for this task a large tapestry needle is a handy alternative.

Every stitch of every eyelet is made from the outside toward the middle. Think of your needle taking steps around a square, diamond, or circle. Bring your needle from the back of the fabric to the front of the fabric along the outer rim. Put the needle into the hole from the front of the fabric to the back of the fabric

It is best if you work in a single direction, clockwise or counterclockwise, as you stitch an individual eyelet. But every complete eyelet in a project does not have to be stitched in the same direction as the others. Nor does every eyelet have to be started in the same place as all the others in that particular design. One exception is with the “window” or “framed” eyelets. It is best if these eyelet styles are always started next to one of the “window panes” or “crosses” in the center of the eyelet.

Eyelets are often used in “whitework“ which is simply stitching with white fibers on a white linen or canvas. Today, whitework is also done with colors. Match the fiber and fabric colors as closely as possible.

Aari satin Stich

2007-02-13T23:56:00.000-08:00

Aari satin Stich on Saree

Satin Stich

Half Rhodes Stitch

2007-02-13T23:49:00.000-08:00

The Half Rhodes stitch is the same as the Rhodes stitch, except the "Half Rhodes" only has 5 stitches. The addition of a small horizontal stitch, known as a bar can be used to keep the stitch neat and hold it together..

This stitch is normally stitched on evenweave fabric and requires 5 stitches and the small bar to make the Half Rhodes stitch. The Half Rhodes stitch does not work well on Aida fabric.

Start the stitch by passing the needle through the material from the back to the front at the bottom left hand side of the stitch.

Next stitch the first diagonal to the top right hand side covering squares of two, four or more threads of evenweave fabric.

Build up the stitch working anticlockwise around the square, progressing step by step until the first 5 stitches have been completed. As the stitches are added, the centre of the stitch raises up, giving the 3D effect.

Finally stitch a small horizontal stitch across the middle of the stitch (the bar). If you are stitching a series of these stitches, keep the sequence to build up the stitch, the same on each to maximise the neatness of the stitches. Sometimes the bar is stitched in a different colour to give a more interesting effect

German Buttonhole stitch

2007-02-13T23:43:00.000-08:00

Buttonhole stitch and the related blanket stitch are hand-sewing stitches used in tailoring, embroidery, and needle lace-making.

Buttonhole stitches catch a loop of the thread on the surface of the fabric and needle is returned to the back of the fabric at a right angle to the original start of the thread. The finished stitch in some ways resembles a letter "L" depending on the spacing of the stitches.

For buttonholes the stitches are tightly packed together and for blanket edges they are more spaced out. The properties of this stitch make it ideal for preventing raveling of woven fabric. This stitch is also the basis for many forms of needle lace.

Examples of buttonhole or blanket stitches include:

Blanket stitch

Buttonhole stitch

Closed Buttonhole stitch-> in which the tops of the stitch touch to form triangles

Crossed Buttonhole stitch-> in which the tops of the stitch cross

Detached Buttonhole stitch-> in which rows of buttonhole stiches are worked to form a "floating" filling stitch Buttonhole stitches combined with knots

Top Knotted Buttonhole stitch

German Knotted Buttonhole stitch

Tailor's Buttonhole stitch

Armenian Edging stitch

Long Tailed French Knot

2007-02-13T23:40:00.000-08:00

Long Tailed French Knot stitch is also known as Pistil Stitch and is worked in exactly the same way as a french knot, but a "tail" is left on the top of the work prior to working the knot. It can be worked singularly or in groups as shown

Mountmellick Embroidery

2007-02-13T23:30:00.000-08:00

Mountmellick Work/Mountmellick embroidery/Irish White Embroidery is a form of whitework embroidery which originated in the town of Mountmellick, Ireland.

1. First and foremost, it is not delicate in the least. It uses heavy cotton (knitting) yarn or matt cotton, not the mercerized stuff, sewn on stiff and sturdy cotton fabric, so it holds up well to lots of hard washing and is useful for household linens that are used often.

Hence, it is quick towork up something. Several weights of threads could be used on the same piece to achieve

whatever effect the worker intended. Crewel needles were preferred...and still are.

While this style of embroidery has been used on finer fabrics with finer threads

2. Mountmellick work is made up of large designs resembling actual flowers and leaves. The

designs were as true to nature as possible, large, bold, well-defined outlines and there is lots of

space between designs, helping them stand out.

3. Edges are finished in a buttonhole stitch with a knitted fringe.

4. There is no openwork. All stitching is done on the surface.

5. Stitches include the usual outline stitches: satin, buttonhole, feather, knots, and lots of

variations and combinations of these, but Mountmellick work also employs what is known as

the Mountmellick stitch.

Feather stitch

2007-02-13T23:24:00.000-08:00

Feather stitch is also known as single coral stitch and briar stitch. Feather stitch is found extensively on traditional English smocks and on antique crazy quilts.

The feathery line created is useful as a smocking stitch and a needlework stitch as it is equally effective when worked in straight lines or following curves.

There are many arrangements and combinations of this stitch.

Today as a stitch it is still used by stitchers who are interested in the traditional and historical needlework crafts and by contemporary needle workers. This versatile stitch can be found worked today in smocking and is still one of the most popular stitches in crazy quilting. Feather stitch is actually a variety of buttonhole stitch.

When working this stitch it is useful to imagine 4 parallel lines. It is useful to mark the fabric with guide-lines using a water dissolvable marker or fade out fabric marker.

Assisi Embroidery

2007-02-12T06:27:00.000-08:00

Assisi embroidery is a form of counted-thread embroidery based on an ancient Italian tradition where the background is filled with embroidery stitches and the main motifs are left void i.e. unstitched.

The name is derived from the Italian town of Assisi where the modern form of the craft originated

Description of the Technique

Simulated example of a stitched Assisi bird motifAssisi work uses a method known as voiding in which the background is filled in while the motif itself is left blank. Cross-stitch is used for the background and Blackwork Embroidery, i.e. Holbein stitch is then used to outline the motif and create the surrounding decorative scrollwork.

Traditionally, Assisi embroidery was rarely executed in cross-stitch, but most often in long-armed cross-stitch. Examples employing other stitches are also known, such as cross-stitch, Italian cross-stitch and Algerian plait stitch.

The colours of thread used were the traditional ones of red, blue, green or gold for the background, and black or brown for the outlines. Traditional motifs were largely heraldic, especially heraldic beasts, and typically featured symmetrically arranged pairs of animals and birds surrounded by ornate filigree borders.

In the oldest pieces, the figures were drawn on the fabric free-hand, surrounded with Holbein stitch and the background was filled as well as possible. For more modern pieces the pattern was constructed carefully on paper, in much the same way as cross-stitch patterns are created. Today Assisi embroidery is nearly always done this way.

Soof embroidery

2007-02-12T06:16:00.000-08:00

Soof embroidery involves the use of geometric patterns and is a type of counted thread embroidery. Lehar or wave is one of the most common patterns. This art form is represented by highly stylized motifs. Just before the needle is inserted the weave threads are counted. The important thing to note is that in this embroidery the stitch is worked from the back of the material.

This hand embroidery is very painstaking.

Without drawing the motifs the artisan imagines the design in the mind and works it out geometrically in the reverse. Most soof patterns generally begin with a triangle. Soof embroidery is full of rhythmic pattern motifs, which depict part of the artisan's lives apart from infinite variations of peacocks.

Shadow Work Embroidery

2007-02-10T04:16:00.000-08:00

Shadow work is done by using the shadow effect that some fabrics produce on thin cloth.

Shadow work is especially done on materials such as sheer organdy, batiste or lawn. They offer great range of possibility to make the whole embroidery looks duplicated on the reverse side. When you use the threads on such sheer materials, they can be shown on the reverse side and thus the shadow effect is produced.

Shadow work can be done in any kind of stitches, as the important is only the visibility of the fabric on the reverse side.

The first thing you need to do when attempting shadow work, is to slightly make the design by stitching with the thread.

Stitching can be done in one of three different ways.

The first way is to stitch herringbone stitches on the reverse side of the cloth, which are then turned at the right side. They produce the shadow effect, on which you can then stitch another design.

The second method is acquired by stitching a double back running stitch on the front of the ground fabric. A small back stitch is done on the side, and then the parallel stitch is done carefully on the other side. In this way a herringbone stitch is produced on the reverse side of the cloth.

The last method is worked entirely on the backside of the cloth: the embroiderer carefully makes parallel back stitches and then turns the sheer ground cloth on its right side. Darning is meant to follow, which requires attentive connection of the parallel back stitches, which are formed to make for the shadow effect.

Three stitches are Mainly used:

Herringbone plain,

zig/zag stitching known as Indian Shadow Work

(shadow) darning.

Floss should be chosen of sufficient color to show through the fabric. A raised effect on the surface adds to the interest of the work.

Stitchers can work the herringbone stitch from either the front or the back of the work, whichever is more comfortable. The long threads must always be on the wrong side of the fabric.

Very tiny stitches (picking up only a few threads of the fabric) are mandatory. The worker should use a small hoop to maintain correct tension. Stitches should be no longer than approximately one-half inch (1 cm).

Counted Cross Stitch

2007-02-10T03:31:00.000-08:00

Counted Cross Stitch is one of the many styles of Counted Thread Embroidery

Counted-thread embroidery is any embroidery in which the fabric threads are counted by the embroiderer before inserting the needle into the fabric.

Evenweave fabric is usually used, it produces a symmetrical image as both warp and weft fabric threads are evenly spaced.

The opposite of counted-thread embroidery is free style embroidery.

Among the counted-thread embroidery techniques used are:

Assisi embroidery

Bargello or Florentine work

Blackwork embroidery

Cross-stitch

Hardanger embroidery

Needlepoint

Drawn thread work

Ribbon Embroidery

2007-02-04T08:20:00.000-08:00

Ribbon Embroidery is often used to embellish Cross Stitch Designs. Ribbon Embroidery uses various surface embroidery stitches to create designs.

Silk ribbon is a woven reeled or filament silk.

Start always with your ribbon ironed flat. You can use anything for this task -usually a hair curling iron or an iron - but use the lowest heat that will straighten the ribbon.

If you need to, spritz with some water. Flat ribbon forms the stitches more easily and looks fuller when stitched.

Silk ribbon does fray with stitching. To minimize the fraying:

1.Use short lengths. For much stitching you can use 18" pieces, but when you are working a lot of french knots or through several layers of fabric you may need to use pieces as short as 12".

2.Use a chenille needle - these are sharp needles with extra large eyes. If you're stitching on evenweaves or through just one layer of a muslin or silk, you can use the smaller size needle but otherwise do yourself a favor and go with the larger sized needle.

Ribbon size Needle size

2mm 20-18mm

4mm 18-16mm

7mm 16-14mm

13mm 14mm

Usually you don't stitch with the larger sizes of silk ribbon such as 25mm, 32mm and 50 mm. You manipulate them into shapes and then attach them because the ribbon compresses too tightly at the insertion points and doesn't have enough space to fan out properly.

Although ribbon seems pricey at the yard level, it covers up to 40% more area than other fibers.

Yes, a little goes a long way! It's also up to 35% faster than other types of stitching, making it the perfect embellishing art.

At the basic level it uses 5 stitches - straight stitch, ribbon or Japanese leaf stitch, lazy daisy, French knot and stem (and whipped stem) stitch. Add 5 more stitches - woven or spider's web rose, feather, fly, fern and split stitch - and you can create an enormous variety of beauty

Tatting

2007-02-04T07:51:00.000-08:00

Tatting is a technique for handcrafting a particularly durable lace constructed by a series of knots and loops. Tatting can be used to make lace edging as well as doilies, collars, and other decorative pieces.

The lace is formed by a pattern of rings and chains formed from a series of lark's head (or half-hitch) knots, called double stitches (ds), over a core thread. Gaps can be left between the stitches to form picots, which are used for practical construction as well as decorative effect.

Technique and materials

Shuttle tatting

Tatting shuttle A tatting shuttle facilitates tatting by guiding thread through loops to make the requisite knots. A tatting shuttle is normally a metal or plastic pointed oval shape less than 3 inches long, but shuttles come in a variety of shapes and materials. Shuttles often have a point or hook on one end to aid in the construction of the lace.

To make the lace, the tatter wraps the thread around one hand and manipulates the shuttle with the other hand. No tools other than the thread, the hands, and the shuttle are used, though a crochet hook may be necessary if the shuttle does not have a point or hook.

Needle tatting

Tatting pinTatters may also use tatting needles instead of shuttles to make lace. A tatting needle is a long needle that does not change thickness at the eye of the needle. The needle used must match the thickness of the thread chosen for the project.

Shuttle and needle-tatted lace look almost identical, but they differ in structure. Shuttle tatting is tighter and finer, while needle tatting can appear thick and loose.

This is due to the fact that both the needle and the thread must pass through the stitches.

Materials

Thicker thread in one or more colors. The best thread for tatting is a "hard" thread that does not untwist readily. DMC Cordonnet thread is a common tatting thread; Perl cotton is an example of a beautiful cord that is nonetheless a bit loose for tatting purposes. Some tatting designs incorporate ribbons and beads.

Kamal Stich

2007-01-29T23:42:00.000-08:00

Kamal Embroidery Stich

Kutch embroidery

2007-01-29T23:33:00.000-08:00

Kutch embroidery was also called `Sindhi stitch' and could be used to add gaiety to any fabric

The oldest and the best known is the kathi named after the Kathi nomads who introduced it. Of the various other styles, heer is perhaps the richest.

It derives its named from the local flossy silk heer that is used to make it. Its long stitches and embossed designs form an all-over design covering the entire surface. Abhala is the mirror embroidery, probably the best known and the most widely used of all Indian embroidery.

Designs for this are prepared by fixing small round-shaped mirrors to the material with the help of the buttonhole stitch, the outline being sketched by hand.

A style of embroidery in Saurashtra known as mahajan has a special design called kajuri in which a satin shine and fine effects are attained by special manipulation of the satin and herring bone stitches with an interplay of glowing red and shades of violet.

They make these entire designs with cross-stitch

kantha embroidery

2007-01-29T23:28:00.000-08:00

kantha embroidery (which forms or outlines decorative motifs with running stitch) The embroidery is done on many layers of cloth. It is done on Sarees,quilts, bedsheets, blankets, saris, salwar suits, stoles, napkins, etc.

It is also known as ‘Dorukha’. This word means making worn out garments into beautiful garments. Therefore it is also known as recycling art.

In earlier times the worn out silk or muslin clothes where used to be put in piles and stitched together.

It is believed that its date of origin lies during the era of Lord Buddha. They used to drape themselves with rags of clothes that were stitched together.

The artists usually embroidery images of human beings, animals, flowers, geometric designs and mythological figures. Generally the worker selects the figure of embroidery to which they relate to.

There are different types of kantha Embroidery done- Sujani kantha, Durjani kantha, Lep kantha, Archilata kantha, Rumal kantha and Oaar kantha.

on cotton sarees with thread taken from the borders of the sari Are done all over.

Types Of Hand Embroidery Stiches

2007-01-29T23:15:00.000-08:00

Types of Hand Embroidery Stiches

which Includes Indian Hand Embroidery Stiches Too..

Assisi Embroidery Stich
Algerian Eye Stich
Alternating Cross Stich
Alternating Barred Chain Stich
Arrow stitch
Arrowhead Stitch
Arrowhead Stitch Threaded

Bargello Stich
Blackwork Embroidery Stich
Back Stitch
Back stitch threaded
Back stitch whipped
Back stitched spider's
Barb Stitch
Barred Chain
Basque Stitch
Basque Knot stitch
Basque Loop stitch
Bead edging stitch
Beaded stitch
Berlin stitch
Berwick Stitch
Blanket stitch
Blanket stitch up and down
Bonnet stitch
Braid chain
Briar stitch
Broad chain stitch
Bullion Knot
Bullion stitch
Butterfly chain Stich
Buttonhole Bar Stich
Buttonhole Wheel Stich
Buttonhole Stich
Buttonhole stitch: Bonnet
Buttonhole stitch: Buttonhole Bar
Buttonhole barb stitch
Buttonhole stitch: Berwick Stitch
Buttonhole stitch: Closed Buttonhole
Buttonhole stitch: Closed Feather stitch
Buttonhole stitch: Crossed buttonhole
Buttonhole stitch: Detached Buttonhole
Buttonhole stitch: Feather stitch
Buttonhole Stitch: Feathered up and down buttonhole
Buttonhole stitch: Mirrored (Up and down buttonhole)
Buttonhole stitch: Rosette of Thorns
Buttonhole stitch: Up and down buttonhole
Buttonhole Stitch: Up and down buttonhole feathered
Buttonhole stitch: Wheel
Bunka Shishu Stich

Casalguidi Stich
Cast on Stitch
Crewel embroidery stich
Cast on stitch Double
Castelguidi Stich
Catch stitch
Caterpillar stitch
Chain Stitch
Chain stitch Alternating barred chain
Chain stitch Barred chain
Chain stitch butterfly
Chain stitch detached
Chain stitch feathered
Chain stitch Heavy chain
Chain stitch open
Chain stitch Oyster
Chain stitch Reversed
Chain stitch Rosette
Chain stitch twisted
Chain stitch whipped
Chain stitch zig zag
Chained feather stitch
Chevron Stitch
Chevron stitch half
Chinese stitch
Closed Buttonhole
Closed Feather Stitch
Colonial Knot Stich
Coil stitch
Convent stitch
Coral knot
Coral Stitch
Couching or Simple Laid Work
Cretan Stitch
Cretan stitch: Open Cretan Stitch
Cretan stitch: Knotted Cretan Stitch
Crewel stitch
Cross Stitch
Cross stitch alternating
Cross stitch Double cross stitch
Cross stitch Half
Cross stitch Long arm cross stitch
Cross stitch Montenegrin
Cross stitch Quarter
Cross stitch Rice stitch
Crossed Buttonhole Stich
Crossed corners Stich

Daisy stitch
Damask stitch
Detached Buttonhole Stich
Detached Chain
Double Cast on stitch
Double Cross
Double knot stitch
Double Herringbone Stich
Double running stitch Interlaced
Drizzle stitch

Eyelet Stitch

Florentine embroidery stich
Feather Stitch
Filling Stitches
Feathered Chain stich
Feathered up and down buttonhole stitch
Fern Stitch
Figure eight knot Stich
Fly Stitch
Fly stitch Closed
Fly stitch Plaited
Fly stitch Reversed
Fly stitch Reversed
Fly stitch threaded
Fly stitch Whipped
Fly stitch whipped reverse
French dot Stich
French Knot Stich

German knot stitch
Ghiordes Knot
Greek stitch
Grub knot

Half Chevron stitch
Half cross stitch
Heavy Braid chain Stich
Heavy chain Stich
Herringbone Stich
Herringbone double Stich
Hardanger embroidery Stich

Indian herringbone stitch
Interlaced Running Stich

Kensington outline stitch
Kloster stitch
Knot stitch
Knotted stitch
Knotted stitch
Knotted Cretan
Knotted loop stitch
Knotted Pearl stitch

Ladder stitch
Laid Work Stich
Lazy daisy stitch
Long legged cross stitch
Long-armed Cross Stich
Long-armed feather stitch
Long-armed fly stitch
Loop stitch

Mirrored buttonhole Stich
Mirrored buttonhole feathered Stich
Montenegrin Stich
Mossoul stitch

Old English knot stitch
Open Chain Stitch
Open Cretan Stich
Open loop stitch
Outline Stitch
Oyster stitch

Padded Satin Stich
Palestrina stitch
Palestrina stitch Basque Knot
Palestrina stitch Reversed
Palestrina stitch Sorbello
Palestrina stitch Triple
Pearl stitch
Pekinese Stich
Persian stitch
Persian stitch
Plaited Slav stitch
Plaited stitch
Porto Rico rose Stich
Portuguese stitch
Post stitch

Queen stitch
Quilt knot stitch
Quarter cross stitch

Raised spider's web wheel Stich
Renaissance stitch
Reversed chain stitch
Ribbed wheel
Rice Stitch
Roman chain stitch
Rosette chain
Rosette of Thorns Stich
Running Stitch
Running Stitch- Interlaced Running Stitch
Running Stitch- Interlaced Double Running Stitch
Running Stitch- Stepped Threaded Running Stitch
Running Stitch- Threaded Running Stitch
Running Stitch- Whipped Running Stitch
Russian cross stitch
Russian stitch

Sampler stitch
Satin Stitch
Scottish Stitch
Scroll Stitch
Sham hem stitch
Single coral stitch
Single feather stitch
Single knot tufting
Single knotted line stitch
Single knotted Smyrna rug stitch
Slav stitch
Smyrna stitch
Snail trail
Sorbello Stitch
South Kensington stitch
Spider's web Stich
Split Stitch
Square chain stitch
Stalk stitch
Star eyelet stitch
Star stitch
Stem Stitch
Stepped and Threaded Running Stitch
Straight or Single Satin Stich
Stroke stitch
Surface embroidery Stich

Tall chain stitch
Tambour stitch
Threaded Arrowhead
Threaded Back
Threaded Fly Stitch
Threaded reverse fly stitch
Threaded Running
Tied coral stitch
Tied loop stitch
Tufted knot stitch
Turkey rug knot Stich
Twilling Stitch
Twist stitch
Twisted Chain stich
Twisted daisy border Stich
Twisted daisy stitch
Twisted knot stitch
Twisted Lattice Band Stich

Up and down blanket stitch
Up and Down Buttonhole stitch
Up and down buttonhole stitch feathered

Vandyke chain stitch

Whitework Stich
Wheatear Stich
Wheel stitch
Whipped attached fly stitch
Whipped Back Stitch
Whipped Chain Stich
Whipped Fly Stich
Whipped reverse fly stitch
Whipped Running
Whipped Spider's Wheel Stich
Whipped Stem Stich
Witch stitch
Worm stitch
Wound stitch
Woven Spiders Wheel
Woven spoke stitch
Woven spot Stich
Woven wheel Stich

Y stitch
Zigzag Chain Stich

Zigzag sham hem stitch

Many More Embroidery Stich Styles be Updated Shortly!!!!!

Free Style Embroidery

2007-01-21T00:32:00.000-08:00

Free Style Embroidery

Kathi Embroidery

2007-01-21T00:11:00.000-08:00

Kathi Embroidery

In this type Kathi , silk or satin is the preferred base cloth while the thread used is either cotton or silk floss. The intervening spaces is filled with leaves and buds.

The mirror work is used to make the center of flowers, animal motifs, flowers and peacocks

satin base cloth while the thread used is either cotton or silk floss. The base in black, embroidery is done in crimson, violet golden yellow and white with greens and blues sparingly used.

The main stitch is herringbone as it is faster to fill other stitches used are an elongated darn and chain-cum-interlacing.

Chicken Embroidery

2007-01-20T23:57:00.000-08:00

Chicken Embroidery

Chicken Work is almost similar to Shadow work. Like Shadow work, Closed Herring Bone stitches are done on the wrong side of the fabric but the stitches are not done as perfectly as in Shadow work.

In chicken Work, stitching is always done with white cotton rough thread and the fabrics used is thicker than those used for Shadow Work - usually cotton.

Though both follow the same stitch they have a totally different appearance.

Materials Required

Embroidery frame
White cotton thread
Tracing Paper
Carbon Paper
Scissors
Needle

Aari Embroidery On Saree With Zardosi Work

2007-01-20T22:25:00.000-08:00

Aari embroidery On Saree, with ZARDOSI WORK

Aari embroidery on Saree

Aari Cutwork

Bidri Embroidery

2007-01-20T09:23:00.000-08:00

Bidri Embroidery

Bidri refers to the art of silver inlay on black colored metal. The embroiderers there tried to bring that same effect on cloth. It is silver embroidery primatily on black cloth.

The stitches and the elements are same as Zardozi

Bidri work

The process involves laying of gold or silver wire on a cast of copper and zinc. The articles are cast with moulds of red clay. A molten solution of copper and zinc is poured on it. The polished base is then coated with copper sulphate to create a dark surface. The design is outlined by the craftsmen with the help of chisels.

Next, a pure silver (or gold) wire or sheet is hammered in the engraved outlines, and the surface polished with sandpaper. In the last stage, the articles are heated and treated with a solution of ammonium chloride, copper sulphate, potassium nitrate and old mud (taken from the ruins of ancient buildings). As a result, the entire surface turns black.

Traditionally Bidri was used to make cot legs, hookahs, pan box, etc. These days, the art is used to make vases, cuff links, earrings, small statues, cigarette box, ashtrays, etc.

Banjara Embroidery

2007-01-20T09:13:00.000-08:00

The Banjara tribe has been an inseparable part of the Telangana region. Their needlework has a style of its own that is distinct from the embroidery work of the Banjaras(Mirror work) from Gujarat and the Kutch area.

The agile fingers of the Banjara womenfolk move delicately tracing the intricate threadwork.

Different patterns, geometric combinations and motifs are sewed with various stitches like chain stitch, long stitch and short stitch(Stiches Used In Banjara Embroidery).

This embroidery is noted for its originality and elegance. The use of mirrors, vibrant colours, shells and beads create an ensemble that is kaleidoscopic and reflects a sense of gay abandon that is so characteristic of the Banjaras.

Phulkari embroidery

2007-01-17T09:22:00.000-08:00

Phulkari is splendidly ornamented by a continuous design through skillful handling of darning.

Chobes is another type of Phulkari in which the edges alone are ornamented with the center being left plain.

The beauty of Phulkari is enhanced by the color of the ground material.

The thread used is invariably pure silk. The uniqueness of the Phulkari embroidery is that its long short darning stitches are worked on the wrong side of the cloth. However, the pattern takes shape on the right side

Fabric Used:

The beauty of Phulkari depended a great deal on the colour of the ground material. Khaddar cloth which was hand spun and hand woven cotton material, was always used for embroidery. The colour was mostly red, white, blue or black.

Threads Used:

The thread used was pure silk. It is untwisted silken floss called PAT.

Golden yellow, green, white, crimson red and orange are the five colours prepared in selecting silk floss for Phulkari work.

Motifs Used:

The motifs are made up of horizontal, vertical and diagonal stitches, producing geometric pattern in Phulkari designs while the Baugh has an overall geometrically floral pattern.

Stitches Used:

The stitch craft of Phulkari consists long short darning stitches. It is a unique method of embroidery in that it is worked entirely on the wrong side of the cloth and the pattern takes shape on the right side. The design is neither drawn nor traced.

Kinds of Phulkari Embroidery:

There are many types of Phulkari.

The 'Chope' and 'Suber' were wedding Phulkari presented to bride by her maternal relations during the marriage ceremony.

The plain red / dark red khaddar shawl known as 'Saloo' was used for daily household wear.

'Til Patra' shawls have very little embroidery and are inferior quality Khaddar.

'Nilak' is worked on black or navy blue Khaddar with yellow and crimson red pat.

Kantha Embroidery

2007-01-17T08:37:00.000-08:00

Kantha is basically close running stitch filled inside a design. Though the work is simple, the final appearance is beautiful. Different shades of thread; double shade or single shades can be used aesthetically according to your taste

Materials required

Embroidery frame
Embroidery thread
Tracing Paper
Carbon PaperNeedle

Method

First trace out the design you have chosen on the fabric using tracing paper and carbon. Stitch the outline and then fill in the design with running stitch leaving very little space. The model is shown here to get the idea of the stitch.

The stitch shown on the right side should be longer and the space in between should be minimum possible.

Running Stitch:

Take two strands of thread, tie a knot at one end and start stitching. Take the needle up from below the fabric, leave some space, take it down and up again repeatedly till the outline is fully done. Start stitching inside the design in the same way until the whole design is filled.

Ladder stitch

2007-01-13T10:39:00.000-08:00

Ladder stitch is used to join two fabrics often knitted fabrics or the fabric covered cards.

The stitch is so that the joint appears seamless.

The first stitch is made at the right angles to the seam and pierce both fabrics. Take a small running stitch on the second fabric then take the thread down in the first fabric again at the right angles.

Repeat and the stitches are almost be invisible

Woven picots

2007-01-13T10:37:00.000-08:00

The stitch makes a leaf-like structure and gives a raised effect.

To work the stitch make a fly stitch with the fastening straight stitch emerging from the same level as the top ends of the V shape.

Instead of using thumb to hold the thread, insert a pin. The straight stitch of the fly is passed around the pin instead of going into the fabric.

Now weave the thread through the foundation till the shape is filled. After this the pin can be removed. Raised leaves of different thickness can be formed using the technique Woven Picots

Twisted chain stitch

2007-01-13T10:35:00.000-08:00

This variation of chain stitch gives a textured appearance. The stitch can be used with a large variety of threads to give different textures. Even ribbon can be used.

The stitch can be worked with long spikes. It is ideal for linear details. It curves easily. It can be worked like a detached chain stitch to create floral motifs.

To work twisted chain, bring the needle up through the fabric and hold the thread with the left thumb. Insert the needle to the left of its emerging pointthat can be varied depending upon the width of the spike.

Take the needle through the fabric bringing the point of the needle out a short space along the line to be stitched. Cross the thread over the needle and wrap it under the needle point and pull the needle.

Straight stitch

2007-01-13T10:34:00.000-08:00

Straight stitch is also called single satin stitch.

These are single stitches of varying or uniform lengths originating at same or different locations.

They may be grouped to form twigs, grass or other landscape details.

Only care to be taken is that they should not be too long.

Stem stitch

2007-01-13T10:31:00.000-08:00

Stem stitch has many other names like crewel stitch, stalk stitch and South Kensington stitch.

It is an outline stitch and is commonly used in stems. It is worked from left to right taking small regular stitches along the line of the design.

The thread is kept to the right of the needle after picking up a small piece of material. The needle always emerges from the left side of the previous stitch.

It is worked in a forward and backward motion. Each stitch move a step back along the previous stitch.

Star stitch

2007-01-13T10:29:00.000-08:00

Star stitch is also called Algerian eye stitch and Star eyelet stitch.

It is generally used on canvas as a counted thread stitch. Worked on even weave fabric, it is made up of stitches arranged in a square.

It is made of a minimum of eight stitches all originating at the center creatin an eyelet there. The length of each stitch may vary but they all fall in the same square making an angle of 45 degrees with each other at the center.

The angle is reduced when no of stitches in each vertical plane increases.

Split stitch

2007-01-13T10:27:00.000-08:00

Split stitch is a variation of stem stitch.

It is also known as Kensington outline stitch.

It is used for outlines and filling where fine flat filling is required. To work this stitch, a soft thread or a stranded is required that can be easily split.

Working is identical to stem stitch only that when the needle emerges from the fabric, it passes through the thread and then pulled.

The effect resembles chain stitch but is finer than that.

Shisha stitch

2007-01-13T10:01:00.000-08:00

Shisha stitch is used for studding the fabric with mirrors. Shisha means mirror. It is often used on Indian textiles and dresses and gives a rich gypsy effect.

The first step involves fastening the mirror with the foundation stitches.

These are simple long stitches about eight in number that pass over the shisha into the fabric. They need not be neat but tight enough to hold the mirror and towards the center.

Now bring the needle up alongside the shisha, pass the needle under the foundation threads, with the thread under the needle just as in a buttonhole stitch. Make a small stitch on the fabric along the mirror, with the thread under the needle again and pull.

Pass the needle under the foundation threads. In the next stitch while making the small stitch alongside the mirror, stitch into the previous loop stitch.

Satin stitch

2007-01-13T09:52:00.000-08:00

Satin stitch is also known as damask stitch. This again is one of the oldest stitches evolved and is used for filling not too broad spaces. It is quite commonly used in different traditional embroidery forms of India, China and Japan.

Working the stitch is quite simple. Neat long stitches are made very close to each other following the pattern margins. bring the thread up through the fabric and make a single straight stitch. Bring the needle out very close to the stitch just made and continue to fill the shape.

Care should be taken not to use the stitch for broad areas as the stitch tends to loosen with time. Other versions of satin stitch like long and short are more suitable for the purpose.

Open chain stitch

2007-01-13T08:30:00.000-08:00

Open chain stitch also known as square chain stitch, and Roman chain stitch.

Open chain stitch is a variation of chain stitch and worked in a similar way. It can be worked in open or closed manner by adjusting the parallel spacing. The stitch supports mirrors quite well. To add a decorative effect, beads can be added. Different threads or ribbons can be used to give different effects.

The stitch is worked over two imaginary lines. One can even mark the two lines initially. Bring the needle up on the left-hand side. Insert the needle through the fabric on the right hand side and bring it out to left of the line to be stitched.

Wrap the thread under the needle point and pull the needle through the fabric. Insert the needle on the right hand side inside the loop, and take the needle through the fabric to the left of the line to be stitched.

Long and short stitch

2007-01-13T08:29:00.000-08:00

This stitch is practically painting with the needle.

It is a filler stitch that fills the motif, flowers etc with the colored embroidery thread. It is a simple modification of satin stitch where the length of the stitches are at two levels. It is used when the space to be filled is too big to be covered with satin stitch.

It is also used to give a shaded effect. In the first row the stitches are alternately long and short and follow the outline of the shape.

The stitches in the following rows are worked in the same manner but to give a smooth appearance.

Herringbone stitch

2007-01-13T08:27:00.000-08:00

Herringbone stitch is also known as Mossoul stitch, Persian stitch, Russian stitch, Russian cross stitch, plaited stitch, catch stitch and witch stitch.

It is one of the oldest stitches used by many embroidery styles. It is often used with mirror work. It can be modified by varying the length of the stitch. It is used as a filler as well as border stitch.

The stitch is worked along two parallel lines from left to right. Bring the needle out on the left end of the line. Make a small stitch on the upper line pointing left. Keep the thread below the needle and pull it through the fabric.

Insert the needle on the lower line a little to the right and make a small stitch which points to the left. Pull the needle through the fabric with the thread above the needle. This can also be called a little modified cross stitch.

French Knot

2007-01-13T08:26:00.000-08:00

French Knot is also known as French dot, knotted stitch, twisted knot stitch and wound stitch.

The stitch is a little tricky to begin with but gives excellent effect in flowers and as filler stitches.
To work the stitch, bring the needle through the fabric and holding the thread taut and flat to the fabric with your left thumb.

Now with the right hand twist the thread round the needle twice.Still holding the thread firmly take the needle back into the fabric slightly away from the emerging point. Pull the thread through to the back of the fabric. The coiled thread will set into a knot.

Fly stitch

2007-01-13T08:25:00.000-08:00

Fly stitch is also called Y stitch as it resembles the alphabet Y.

The stitch consists of up of a V-shaped loop fastened by a vertical straight stitch. The stitch is often used as scattered stitch like grass or in borders as a plant shape. When worked one upon other and in branches, it takes a plant shape.

To work Fly stitch, bring the thread through the fabric out at the top left of the line that is to be worked. Hold the thread down with the left thumb and insert the needle a small space, level and to the right of where the thread first came out.

Make a small stitch downwards to the center. With the thread under the needle, pull it through the fabric and secure it in position with the loop.

The length of the fastening stitch can be varied to produce different effects. The stitch best represents twigs and grass.

Detached chain stitch

2007-01-13T08:22:00.000-08:00

The detached chain stitch is often called a tall chain stitch, loops stitch, tied loop stitch, picot stitch and knotted knot stitch.

This stitch is often worked in a circle to form a flower motif and as a result known as lazy daisy stitch or daisy stitch.

Bring the needle up through the fabric and hold the thread with the left thumb. Insert the needle back into where it first came out.

Take the needle through the fabric bringing the point of the needle out a short space away. Pull the needle through with the thread under the needle point. The loop is then fastened with a small stitch.

Detached chain stitch can be used to make leaves and flower shapes. This stitch can also be worked either with a double or triple loop to form more complex designs. It can be used to make scattered filling.

Cup stitch

2007-01-13T08:21:00.000-08:00

Cup stitch is a raised stitch and is used to give three dimensional effect to the patterns.

The first step of the stitch includes creating a triangle with three long stitches. Each long stitch is then worked with two twisted buttonhole stitches.

To give the stitch a higher accent, the stitches are built one into other. In the spaces between the previous row. Continue till the required height.

To open the structure, add extra stitches into some of the spaces. To close up the structure make the stitches in alternate spaces

Cretan Stitch

2007-01-13T08:14:00.000-08:00

Cretan Stitch

It is a creative filling stitch often used for leaves and petals in the traditional embroidery. It is versatile enough to insert beads and sequins.

This stitch is worked from left to right, along two parallel lines.

Bring the needle to the right of the center. With the needle pointing inwards, insert the needle onto the design line at the left, and bring out to the left of the center. The thread has to be kept under the needle.

Now insert the needle on the design line at the right, bringing it up to the right of the centre. Continue till the area is filled. These lines when kept at equal distance give a neat look.

Haute Couture & Chikan Kari

2007-01-10T05:06:00.000-08:00

The name chikan seems to have been derived from the Persian word chikan or chikin or chikeen, which means a cloth wrought with needlework.

Different artworks of chikankari includes:-

Taipchi: A type of stemstitch used to make out lines of motifs on sarees.

Phanda: The millet-shaped stitches are used to make flowers and patterns like grapevines.

Murri: The murri stitches are rice-shaped, they are like the French knot.

Jali: The jali is normally worked by tearing apart the warp and weft threads of the cloth and by creating minute buttonhole stitches.

Most of the design motifs in chikankari are Mughal-based, also seen in the ornamentation at the Taj Mahal and Fatehpur Sikri.

As far as chikan work is concerned, the point of the needle darts back and forth, teasing the weave of the fine muslin, mull or cotton.

Each stitch is diligently added till a perfect motif appears as part of a tracery of petals, birds or arabesques. While the nawabs played an important role in preserving the chikan tradition, it has now been given a contemporary touch by the designers.

While chikan is known in India not only for hand-embroidered but hand stitched garments too, pre-embroidered fabrics which offer a blend of international and Indian motifs in Schiflee embroidery have also been traditionally popular. Hakoba embroidery on pastels and white has been a part of traditional summer wardrobes

Stitches of Chikankari

2007-01-10T02:39:00.000-08:00

The basic stitches are six in number and all except one are common to other forms of embroidery.

1) Tepchi is a long running or darning stitch worked with six strands on the right side of the
fabric taken over four threads and picking up one. Thus, a line is formed. It is used principally
as a basis for further stitchery and occasionally to form a simple shape.

2) Bakhiya, double back or shadow stitch in chikan work is done from the wrong side of the
fabric and the design is rendered in the herringbone style. The shadow of the thread is seen
through the cloth on the right side.

3) Hool is a fine detached eyelet stitch. Herein, a hole is punched in the fabric and the threads
are teased apart. It is then held by small straight stitches all round and worked with one
thread on the right side of the fabric. It can be worked with six threads and often forms the
center of a flower.

4) Zanzeera is a small chain stitch worked with one thread on the right side of the fabric. Being
extremely fine, it is used to finally outline the leaf or petal shapes after one or more outlines
have already been worked.

5) Rahet is a stem stitch worked with six threads on the wrong side of the fabric. It forms a
solid line of back stitch on the right side of the fabric and is rarely used in its simple form but
is common in the double form of dohra bakhiya as an outlining stitch.

6) Banarsi stitch has no European equivalent and is a twisted stitch worked with six threads on
the right side of the fabric. Working from the right across about five threads a small stitch is
taken over about two threads vertically. The needle is reinserted halfway along and below
the horizontal stitch formed and is taken out about two threads vertically on the right above
the previous stitch.

7) Khatau is similar to Bakhia, but finer and is a form of applique. In Khatau, the design is
prepared on calico material. That is placed over the surface of the final fabric and then paisley
and floral patterns are stitched on to it.

8) Phanda and Murri are the forms of stitches used to embroider the centre of the flowers in
ordinary chikan work motifs. They are typically French knots, with murri being rice-shaped
and phanda millet-shaped.

9) Jali stitch is the one where the thread is never drawn through the fabric, ensuring that the
back portion of the garment looks as impeccable as the front. The warp and weft threads are
carefully drawn apart and minute buttonhole stitches are inserted into the cloth.

10) Turpai and Darzdari are also significant stitches in chikan work. Turpai should have an
effect of a thin thread. Darzdari have several varieties, the popular ones are Kohidarz,
Kamal darz, Shankarpara darz, Muchii and Singbhada darz.

11) The various other types of legendary chikankari stitches are: Pechani, Bijli, Ghaspatti,
Makra, Kauri, Hathkadi, Banjkali, Sazi, Karan, Kapkapi, Madrazi, Bulbul-
chasm, Taj Mahal, Janjeera, Kangan, Dhania- patti, Rozan, Meharki,
Chanapatti, Baalda, Jora, Keel kangan,
bulbul, sidhaul, ghas ki patti etc.

12) Drifting apart from the original pristine setting, the tone-on-tone embroidery is in vogue
these days. The significant use of beads, sequin and mokaish (white flat silver strip
embroidery) have gained wide acceptance.

FabricIn addition to the white base fabric, colored fabrics and threads are also used. Silk and cotton threads are employed for embroidery work on sarees, dupattas, table linen and kurtas. Cotton being the most preferred choice, chikankari is also done on mulls, muslins, voiles, organzas and polyester. Some more include: chiffon, viscose, georgette, polyester georgette, cotton crepe and net. The designs change every other month, as per the market trends, with colors that perfectly match with the season

Zari/Zardosi Embroidery

2007-01-03T04:11:00.001-08:00

Zari/Zardosi Embroidery or Aari embroidery

India, wrapped in the mystique, enhanced with the romance of fabled crafts, has one of the finest traditions of embroidery in the world. It has long been known for its embroidery with gold and silver threads called Zari. Zari is gold, and zardozi embroidery is the glitteringly ornate, heavily encrusted gold thread work.

Zardozi the traditional art of court embroidery is the sheer magic of nimble fingers and imaginative designs, envisaged by the ensemble of lustrous metallic wire which was traditionally the silver wire coated/plated with gold, silk threads, beads and stones.

Done with metal wire and metal pieces or sequins on velvet, satin and heavy silk bases, Zari is one of the most famous and elaborate techniques in metal embroidery. An ancient art, dating back to Rigvedic times, was used to adorn the dresses of Gods and Goddesses.

The original embroidery of Zari was done with pure silver wires coated with real gold known as Kalabatun. Though silver and gold threads have now been replaced with synthetic and artificial threads, the art remains the same.

These days it is used to make exquisite evening dresses, coats, fashion accessories like purses, handbags, belts, shoes; ceremonial adornments like badges and insignia; furnishing accessories like cushion covers, wall hangings and boxes etc.

Popularly known as Aari work, Zari, involves use of beads and a special needle known as Muthia which is similar to a crochet needle.

The difference between Aari and Zardozi work is in the method of embroidery and material used.

Zardozi uses Dabka (spring type of a thread), katori, tikena, and sitara (sequins). Both methods are used to create fascinating designs.

METAL WIRE:
How it is made?

The method is called 'Kalabatune'.

The process starts with the melting of metal ingot to make into bars known as 'paras', which is drawn to a length by gently beating it after heating.

The metal is then pulled through perforated steel plates to turn into a long wire after which comes the 'Tarkashi' process.

This is to reduce the wire to the required thinness like a whisp of hair using rubber/ diamond dyes (moulds). The last stage is called 'Budla' when the wire is finally flattened, now done by machines and then wound on silk/ cotton thread which when twisted becomes Kasab/ Kalabatune.

There are two types of embroideries:

1. Heavy work
2. Light work

Zardozi is the heavier type
Kamdani is the lighter type

In Zardozi, the stitches are very close to each other and they are elaborately done.

The lighter type Kamdani is used on finer fabrics and it is of a simpler kind and less elaborate. Zardozi is prepared with the use of 'budla' which are thin strips of metal.

GIZAI:

It is a circular thin wire resembling an insect of this name.SITARA: It is a small round metal piece to look like a star.

Zardozi is prepared on curtains, heavy coats, cushions, shoes and animal tappings.

Kamdani:

which is for lighter type is done on weaving apparels such as caps, scarves, etc.

In Zardozi, the design is with the twisted gold thread called Gijai. Gold and silver embroidery is done using any type of stitch.
1) Laid stitch/ wouching stitch,
2) Satin stitch,
3) Chain stitch,
4) Stem stitch and
5) Running stitch.

The chain stitch resembles in counter part in Kutch work and is generally used in sarees.

The stem stitch and the running stitch are used for a miscellaneous type of work.

The laid/ wouching stitch as it is called is important and suited in gold thread. It is generally used on cushion/ masnads (small gaddis) gold and silver embroidery is invariably done with cloth stitched over a wooden frame. Sometimes certain designs as leaves and petals of flowers are padded to give a raised effect.

In the Gota Kinari is in fine shaped birds, animals, human figures attached to the cloth and encased in wires of silver and gold while the space around is covered by coloured silk.

The overall effect is of enamelling. The most important feature in gota and Kinari work is the cutting of the woven gold border into various shapes and design, which are stitched on the cloth, thus creating a variety of textured patterns in the design.

Karchobi is divided into 4 types.

1) Kasab-Tiki:

Using gold and silver thread and spangles.

2) Jhik-Chalak: Using twisted thread called Jhick and zig-zag thread called chalak.

3) Bharat-Karachi: Using pieces of cardboard to provide a raised body for the design, the material being used as a padding.

4) Jhik-Tiki: Using twisted thread and spangles.

Gold and silver embroidery can be easily done on satin with a backruns lining. The design should be first traced on satin fabric and tracked to the backrun of the same size on the 4 sides. 7 inch needles and threads should be used to embroider the gold and silver work.

There are many types of Zari threads. The thicker Kalabatune is braided gold thread used in the border while a thinner variety is used at the thinner edges for batwas, tassels, necklace strings.

Tirora: It is a gold thread especially twisted using curves and complex designs. The dull Zari thread in 'Kora' and lustrous one in 'Chikna'. The design is first traced out on paper, pricked with pins, with fine powder lightly rubbed on it. Now-a-days, gold and silver embroidery is mainly done on sarees and choli pieces. The other articles embroidered are evening bags, slippers, belts.

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How To Wear a Saree

2007-01-03T04:11:00.000-08:00

Saree 1

At least part of the secret of the sari are the "underneath" garments - a waist -to- floor length petticoat, tied tightly at the waist by a drawstring. (No elastic, please!) And a tight fitting blouse that ends just below the bust - short sleeved or sleeveless, with a variety of necklines.

Saree 2

Starting at the navel, tuck the plain end of the sari into the petticoat for one complete turn from right to left. Make sure that the lower end of the sari touches the floor.

Saree 3 & 4

Beginning from the tucked-in end start making pleats in the sari, about 5 inches deep. Make about 7 to 10 pleats and hold them up together so that they fall straight and even

Saree 5

Tuck the pleats into the waist slightly to the left of the navel, and make sure that they are turned towards the left.

Saree 6

Drape the remaining fabric around yourself once more left to right, and bring it up under the right arm and over the left shoulder so that it falls to about the level of the knees.

saree 7

The end portion thus draped is the pallav, and can be prevented from slipping off by fixing it at the shoulder to the blouse with a small safety pin.

Embroidered Handbags

2006-12-31T09:20:00.000-08:00

Handbags are a deviation from the traditional carry bags that were used only for utility purposes.

They now represent a unique blend of modern and classic styles, lining beauty as much as as utility. Embroidered handbags are a craze in all the age groups as they are items of day to day utility and display exquisite workmanship.

There is no limit to the variety of bags that display exquisite embroidery. Most common types are as follows: Totes Satchels Hobos The score of materials used for the making of these bags include:

Fabrics such as cottons, corduroy,velvet, silk, organza, wool and denim etc. Pure/Faux Leather Jute Flax Cane

The embroidery done on these items ranges from patterns like coronets and braids which includes various geometrical, floral and abstract patterns in fascinating colors.

Some items exhibit stitching styles like
Romanian couching,
french knots ,
lattice,
stem,
satin,
Cretan stitches etc.

coupled with embellishments such as beads, sequins and tassels

Embroidery In Jeans

2006-12-31T09:14:00.000-08:00

It all starts with the right pair of jeans. It’s imperative to concentrate on fit when selecting your denim blank.

Splurge on a pair of designer jeans, and you’ll feel like a million bucks! It’s hard to describe the feeling that pulling on perfect-fitting jeans can bring. As we age, it’s all about fit.

Often, a little stretch with fullness over the upper thigh and derriere and a contoured waistband is perfect for mature needs. The low rise jean may help fit petite figures with its short crotch

length. Y ou may need other features, so prepare yourself for a day of auditioning jeans at the local mall. Once you find the brand that works for you, you’re set.

Color also plays a part in the overall look. Faded, bleached jeans are casual, while dark jeans lend a dressier look to an ensemble. Dark jeans make the wearer appear thinner than she actually is, plus the embroidery has a more powerful impact on the dark denim. So select color carefully.

Placement

A successfully designed embroidered denim outfit makes you look great! It’s all about focus – and that’s what embroidery does. It draws focus to you, to your figure and to specific areas on the garment. So make it work to your advantage. Use the embroidery to fool the eye –use vertical streams of embroidery to lengthen the figure. Add a horizontal focus at the hemline to balance wide hips.

Be careful about pocket embroidery – almost all figures can wear embroidered pockets (yes, even back pockets!) if careful attention is spent on the size of the design. Larger derrieres should embroider on one pocket, not both, to minimize the wearer’s girth.

Front pocket embroidery is trendy and interesting. Place it just under or above the curve of the pocket. Make sure it doesn’t ‘point’ to the crotch and don’t let it span across the side seam – that too can widen the figure.

All embroidery should be auditioned on the garment with templates. Don’t take a stitch until you’ve printed a template of the design, put the garment on and stood in front of a mirror. Use this method to work on the layout before you start to rip open any seams and you’ll be so satisfied with your finished project.

Color

Lay your spools of thread on the denim and critique the mix. Make sure the embroidery will ‘pop’. You want your efforts to show, so use color and value to showcase your talents. Contrast is the key to success for embroidering on denim. If you’re working with a soft, faded blue, select thread that is dark or at least fully saturated with color.

Darker denim can sport lighter shades of thread and still provide a highly contrasting illusion. Satin stitched outlines are more visible than single-run outlines on all denim so select designs with that feature

Stabilizer

I like to use polymesh cut-away on all my denim. I hoop the polymesh, spray it with temporary adhesive and press the garment onto the hooped stabilizer. I add pins for added security. After sliding the hoop onto the machine, I slip a piece of tear-away under the design area. I’ve used this combination on regular denim and stretch denim for satisfying results.

Needle

Use a large embroidery needle , 90/14, for most denim projects. Since you’ll be using embroidery thread, you’ll need an eye that can accommodate the thread.

Grab an old pair of jeans and start playing! Then move on to your favorite designer jeans – you’ll love wearing them!