Shadow Work Embroidery

Shadow work is done by using the shadow effect that some fabrics produce on thin cloth.


Shadow work is especially done on materials such as sheer organdy, batiste or lawn. They offer great range of possibility to make the whole embroidery looks duplicated on the reverse side. When you use the threads on such sheer materials, they can be shown on the reverse side and thus the shadow effect is produced.

Shadow work can be done in any kind of stitches, as the important is only the visibility of the fabric on the reverse side.

The first thing you need to do when attempting shadow work, is to slightly make the design by stitching with the thread.

Stitching can be done in one of three different ways.

The first way is to stitch herringbone stitches on the reverse side of the cloth, which are then turned at the right side. They produce the shadow effect, on which you can then stitch another design.

The second method is acquired by stitching a double back running stitch on the front of the ground fabric. A small back stitch is done on the side, and then the parallel stitch is done carefully on the other side. In this way a herringbone stitch is produced on the reverse side of the cloth.

The last method is worked entirely on the backside of the cloth: the embroiderer carefully makes parallel back stitches and then turns the sheer ground cloth on its right side. Darning is meant to follow, which requires attentive connection of the parallel back stitches, which are formed to make for the shadow effect.

Three stitches are Mainly used:

Herringbone plain,

zig/zag stitching known as Indian Shadow Work

(shadow) darning.

Floss should be chosen of sufficient color to show through the fabric. A raised effect on the surface adds to the interest of the work.

Stitchers can work the herringbone stitch from either the front or the back of the work, whichever is more comfortable. The long threads must always be on the wrong side of the fabric.

Very tiny stitches (picking up only a few threads of the fabric) are mandatory. The worker should use a small hoop to maintain correct tension. Stitches should be no longer than approximately one-half inch (1 cm).

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